GO TO THE PARK
Leimert Village is a cultural mecca for everyone
Gertrude Stein said it about Oakland, but many folks complain that there's no "there" here in Los Angeles. Tinseltown, La-La Land, Hollyweird is an endless prefab mirage, infinitely reflecting back other phony images with yummy weather.
While that may be true for some of the Southland, if you're willing to do a little exploratory groundwork (actually get out of the car), you'll find all sorts of buried treasures and uncommon pleasures to be experienced "here," "there," and everywhere.
One of my ideal pieces of "where" is South L.A.'s Leimert Park Village. Within four or five unassuming city blocks, several one-of-a-kind stores and establishments flourish, slightly hidden amidst the Mickey D-Pizza Hut-Blockbuster Ubiquitous Retail Complex that is overdeveloped El Lay. The main drag is situated on Degnan Boulevard between 43rd Street and 43rd Place, one block east of Crenshaw Boulevard. (And no, this is not the infamous "South Central" you've heard so much about - that's further south and, uh, more central.)
Every summer, the Village greets you like an old friend with its people, music, and arts festivals (the next one is "Dance With My Father," every Saturday in June and on Father's Day, June 19, info: 310-330-0178), weekly drum circle (every Sunday at 2:30 p.m. to whenever, y'all), and genial laid-back vibe. Often referred to as an "oasis," it offers up some delicious cultural thirst-quenchers for a variety of tastes. Let's take a walk around the LP and get familiar.
One of my favorite spots is Zambezi Bazaar (4334 Degnan Blvd., 323-299-6383). It's run by the Kimbrough family; sisters Mary and Jackie provide invaluable assistance when you don't know what to get for that special someone (even if it's ya self). And their commitment to the community is deep. "We love being in Leimert Park with people we know, people who enjoy our products, and people that we enjoy being around," Jackie says. Their store is chock-full of handcrafted gifts, jewelry, and artifacts produced by a multitude of independent artists and vendors. An item purchased here will demonstrate your iconoclastic taste and generate that much sought-after inquiry: "Where'd you get that?"
Just down the block is the "World Famous" World Stage Performance Gallery (4344 Degnan Blvd., 323-293-2451 or Theworldstage.org). Founded by respected poet Kamau Daaood and the most recorded drummer in jazz history, the late Billy Higgins, the Stage draws all kinds of peoples down to Leimert for its intimate ambience and penchant for booking the jazz scene's best up-and-comers (Dwight Trible, Azar Lawrence), not to mention overlooked classic cats who still have the urge to blow (Dr. Art Davis, Oscar Brashear). It's also host every Wednesday evening (7:30 p.m.-10:30 p.m.) to one of L.A.'s oldest (pre-Def Jam!) poetry circles, The Anansi Writer's Workshop (Theworldstage.org/lit.html), The Jazz Jam Session, (Thursdays, 9:40 p.m.-2 a.m.), and weekly drum and vocal workshops. Experience the Stage and witness, as Daaood has said, "...The power of the arts as a vehicle for self-discovery, revelation, inspiration and healing... ."
Across the street is the newly reborn Fifth Street Dick's Coffeehouse (4305 Degnan Blvd., 323-296-0040). It has a full coffee and tea bar, fresh sandwiches and salads, and free wireless connectivity for your laptop (holla!). Operating in the spirit of its founder, the late Richard Fulton, owner Erma Kent (Fulton's lively significant other of 10 years) and her staff seek to re-create the contagious vibe that emanated from the original FSD's: "We have jazz up in here, spoken-word (Resurrection, every Wednesday, 9:30 p.m.-11:30 p.m.), and comedy - and just good people!"
The next stretch just south of FSD's offers several beguiling attractions, including Faadil Asadullah's African by the Yard (4319 Degnan Blvd., 323-291-1517). Overflowing with clothing, fabric, luggage, and sculpture - some of it direct from the Motherland, it's in its 14th year of existence and part of the Village's "Do-It-Yourself" foundation.
Next door, The Dance Collective Studio (4327 Degnan Blvd., 323-291-1538) offers African dance (the original aerobics?), ballet, tap, and drum classes several days a week. The studio's been groovin' for 13 years, and Park regulars are habitually drawn to the sound of echoing drumbeats wafting out its doors. This summer, chief drum instructor Jamaiel Shabaka is conducting a special nine-week program, "Anani Rites of Passages," wherein youth (7-18), will study drum culture and African heritage. In the immortal words of my man Don C from Soul Train: "It's a stone groove that'll make yo' body move."
If you're looking for visual art, keep steppin' to Gallery Plus (4333 Degnan Blvd., 323-296-2398) just across the way, where you can purchase a myriad of 20th and 21st-century black art and related stuff at a variety of price points.
Heading north, we come to Lucy Florence Coffeehouse (3351 W. 43rd St., 323-293-1356), owned and operated by the Brothers Harris. Home to writer Earl Ofari Hutchinson's Los Angeles Urban Policy Roundtable (every Saturday at 10 a.m., Laurbanroundtable.org), this establishment's current incarnation features the Le Florence art gallery, a small theater, casual dining fare, and delicious homemade desserts (you gotta try the chocolate cake). Consciously promoting all aspects of the creative black experience, Richard Harris outlines their philosophy: "At Lucy Florence, you will absorb many, many things: theater, dance, film, spoken word, music and visual arts. And a lot of southern hospitality." Indeed.
Roving from store to the next door will definitely work up your appetite, but instead of feeding the yawning maws of the nearby super-size-me conglomer-chains, stay in the LP and grab a juicy turkey burger at O'So Tasty Burgers (3347 43rd Pl., 323-293-6348) or an appetizing turkey dog with veggie chili at Earle's Grill (4326 Crenshaw Blvd., 323-299-2867), or have a nice sit-down at M&M Soul Food Restaurant (4317 Degnan Blvd., 323-298-9898).
Just a couple doors down from O'So is Ben Caldwell's multimedia community arts center, KAOS Network (4343 Leimert Blvd., 323-296-5717). Every Thursday, it hosts Project Blowed, L.A.'s longest (10 years and still) running hip-hop open mike night (10 p.m.-1:30 a.m.). PB has nurtured and produced some of the most creative voices in Los Angeles scene, including Aceyalone, Busdriver, Freestyle Fellowship, and Jurassic 5. On a hot summer night, this happening's got what the kids call "flavor."
A caveat: You should know that my li'l tour was just the half. There are several other cool destinations in Leimert Park, from the city-run Vision Theater to numerous custom-clothing boutiques (I didn't tout 'em 'cuz I'm strictly Ross, baybeee) to the age-old blues club Babe's & Ricky's Inn (4339 Leimert Blvd., 323-295-9112). All in all, you could get all your senses satisfied in Leimert Park. You could even get your clothes dry-cleaned at Zeb's Cleaners (3351 W. 43rd Pl., 323-295-4241) if that, uh, were somehow relevant to upping your fun quotient this summer (and beyond). You could support many independently owned, creative-minded businesses and organizations. Or you could go to that new mall. Again. But don't. Come to Leimert. You could. Seriously ... you can. I'm personally inviting you.Published: 05/19/2005
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