DOWN WITH THE DODGER DOG
Don't follow the crowd! Get something good on the way to Chavez Ravine
By Dan Epstein
The enduring popularity of the Dodger Dog continues to mystify me. Every season, I try one, just to see if they're still mealy, flavorless, and served on a soggy and/or stale bun - and lo, they always manage to live down to my expectations. According to the National Hot Dog and Sausage Council (yes, there really is such a thing), a major-league-leading 1.61 million of them were consumed at Chavez Ravine last year; but, like George W. Bush's reelection numbers, this tally seems more like the by-product of mass hysteria than evidence of legitimate quality.´´
Unfortunately, unless you're sitting in the really expensive seats, the other dining options at Dodger Stadium are about as uninspiring as the team itself. At major league ballparks like San Francisco's Pac Bell, Chicago's Wrigley Field, and Baltimore's Camden Yards, the wide array of culinary delights is part of the draw. But Chavez Ravine has long been a pit of gastronomic mediocrity, and Frank McCourt - the Dodgers' penny-pinching current owner - isn't likely to change that any time soon.
Thankfully, downtown L.A. and its environs offer plenty of excellent takeout and dine-in options on the way to the game. Here are seven tried-and-true favorites:
Original Texas Barbecue King (867 W. Cesar Chavez Ave., 213-437-0881). Why buy an overpriced and underheated Carl's Jr. burger at Dodger Stadium, when you can score one of the city's best just a few blocks away? Hot off the grill, big as your face, and slathered in smoky barbecue sauce, the King's burger is guaranteed to have your entire seating section looking on with envy as you unwrap it.
Philippe the Original (1001 N. Alameda St., 213-628-3781). A longtime pre-game favorite with Dodger fans, thanks to its simple-but-tasty food and copious free parking. The French Dip sandwiches are always your best bet for takeout, even though they generally get a little soggy by the time you reach your seats. Best not to try transporting the pickled eggs, though.
Eastside Market and Italian Deli (1013 Alpine St., 213-250-2464). Strictly a day-game proposition (it closes weekdays at 5 p.m., and 3 p.m. on Saturdays), this well-hidden Chinatown fixture serves up the finest meatball sandwich in the city, and its Italian sausage and eggplant parmigiana sandwiches are pretty damn great as well. Phone ahead for pick-up, since lunchtime lines can be rather long.
Pizza Buona (2100 W. Sunset Blvd., 213-413-0800). Dodger Stadium's pizza stand goes by the name of "Pizza," and the pie is about as generic as you'd expect. You're better off swinging by this homey Echo Park pizzeria about 75 minutes before the game, so you can feast at leisure on a cheesy, chewy pie that tastes like it's straight outta New York or Boston.
Frying Fish (120 Japanese Village Plaza, 213-680-0567). This may not be the best sushi emporium in Little Tokyo, but it's definitely the fastest, thanks to a conveyor-belt system that brings delectable rolls to your plate before you can even ask. If you're jonesing for a quick sushi fix before the game, you can be in and out of Frying Fish in only 20 minutes.
Barragan's (1538 W. Sunset Blvd., 213-250-4256). Located just a few blocks west of Chavez Ravine, Barragan's has been serving tasty, inexpensive Mexican food since before the Dodgers moved in. Its nachos put Dodger Stadium's to shame, to say nothing of the margaritas. And if you get too hammered to actually go to the game, you can always stick around and watch it on one of many televisions.
La Bottega Marino (203 N. Larchmont Blvd., 323-962-1325). Okay, so it's nowhere near Dodger Stadium - but if you're heading to the game from the mid-Wilshire area, call ahead and pick up one of its many delicious submarine sandwiches. Each sandwich comes with a tasty side of pasta salad, but you'll be too full to even touch it.Published: 06/23/2005
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