Downtown Is History

There's something happening around here. Subtle and not-so-subtle clues point to a major metamorphosis, but maybe I'm just paranoid. Over the past two years, a lot of downtown L.A.'s old commercial buildings have been going under the knife - as in gutted, repainted, and advertised as loft-style apartments. I've noticed several new cafés, 20-something hipsters cruising the sidewalks at night, and the small deli on Main and Third is selling high-end pet food. Now, that calls for concern.

On first impression, one might define downtown L.A. as seedy, or dirty, or maybe even disturbing. Granted, it's not in the best shape, but take pity; it has suffered terribly since mid-century suburban sprawl. In its early 20th-century heyday, downtown was a fully functioning and thriving urban center with theaters, hotels, stores, and restaurants surrounded by culturally diverse neighborhoods. When businesses started heading west to take Wilshire Boulevard addresses, so much of what existed downtown went with them, leaving behind blocks of fabulous architectural relics and lavish but dark theaters.

The city has tried to revitalize the area many times over, to no avail - until recently. This latest effort looks like it might stick. Motivated by a 1999 Adaptive Reuse Ordinance that expedites the city's sluggish review process, developers have been feverishly buying up buildings to convert into apartments and condominiums, or breaking ground on derelict lots for new luxury residential towers. Working in their favor is L.A.'s serious housing crunch, coupled with the city's ambitious marketing campaign that paints downtown as the place to "Live, Work, & Play."

With all the props in place, it's just a matter of time before downtown and its crunchy vibe is transformed. If we're lucky, redevelopment won't annihilate the mom 'n' pop shops, independents, and oddities that have managed to thrive in this often inhospitable environment. These are the people and places that make the present downtown the most interesting area in L.A. to explore and observe. But history proves that progress isn't too kind to the little people, so take some advice from one who's spent the last few years in their midst: Check it out now, because this unique slice of real L.A. may soon go the way of Chavez Ravine.

Esprit de Core

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The Historic Core - bounded by Third, Ninth, Hill, and Main streets - has the most diverse commerce, cultures, and spectacular architecture, including the theaters lining Broadway. This is also the home of L.A.'s famous jewelry centers, which generate an unbelievable $2.5 billion a year. The best thing to come out of this district's redevelopment will be the love and long-awaited respect given to its many architectural gems. The Los Angeles Conservancy has done an excellent job of watching out for these beauties and introducing them into the public consciousness by providing regular walking tours and a yearly series, "The Last Remaining Seats," which opens one historic theater each spring for the screening of classic films. Check out Laconservancy.org for info, or call (213) 623-2489.

If a self-guided tour is more your style, then drive - or, better yet, train it downtown and get off at the Pershing Square subway stop on the corner of Fifth and Hill. If you're a hardcore Angeleno with absolutely no public-transportation skills, then you'll have to find parking in one of the nearby overpriced lots. Focus your adventure on South Broadway between Fifth and Ninth streets, and walk very, very slowly. The distractions on the sidewalk are many, but don't let that stop you from looking up at the brick and mortar mid-rises along the way. Even covered in layers of sooty bus exhaust and pigeon crap, there are a number of fine examples of early 20th-century Classical Beaux Arts and Art Deco (ZigZag) Moderne buildings.

* The Eastern Columbia Building (849 S. Broadway) definitely warrants a look-see, as it is L.A.'s Deco Moderne show piece. Last year, the Kor Group purchased the building to convert to condos, but it's also dropping a load of cash on repairs and restoration.

* Down the street, on the corner of Seventh Street and South Broadway, you'll find the Tower Theater, a strange amalgamation of Spanish, Moorish, and Roman details. If you can focus your gaze above the small shops busting with merchandise, check out the fabulous tower that rises from the corner.

Retail Bliss

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A downtown landmark of a different kind is just a block away. Libros Revolucion (312 W. Eighth St., 213-488-1303) has been trying to galvanize action for 18 years. The bilingual bookstore is a great resource for revolutionary literature and a local gathering place for like-minded folks.

Far less exciting but extremely useful for the locals is the New York Hardware Trading Co. Inc. (410 W. Eighth St., 213-614-0023). This store has old-school charm and, despite its size, offers everything one needs to maintain an apartment ... or fish in the L.A. River. (Yes, it sells fishing tackle.) William has managed the store for 18 years - and, no, he didn't shoot the antlered rabbit that's mounted on the wall.

One of my favorites on Broadway is the 12-story Mercantile Arcade Building (542 S. Broadway), an open, skylighted shopping arcade that runs through the building between Broadway and Spring Street. I like it as much for the architecture as the eclectic assortment of vendors who sell their wares within. The main aisle is lined with, among other things, electronic gadgets, cheap underwear and socks, toys, linens, and a mysterious botánica shop that sells religious icons, incense, and sketchy remedies for all that ails ya.

The shopping along Broadway is pretty darn good, as long as you keep your mind open and your wallet or purse close to your body. With all the sweatshops ... er, clothing factories ... within a mile, there's an enormous selection of trendy clothes and children's apparel, peppered with bridal shops, low-budget shoe stores, and vendors selling toiletries, batteries, and other random products. (Unlike the ubiquitous Rite-Aid, these vendors will cut a little slack if you make a deal.) But Red Zone (629 S. Broadway, 213-622-8649) is by far the coolest shop in the district. The first one opened down the street from the current location in 1988 but had to close at the end of 2004 because of a rent hike. The store carries an awesome collection of rock T-shirts, postpunk clothing and accessories, a great selection of shoes including Doc Martens, and other fringe-of-society paraphernalia. Manager Mike and his hip crew (Carlos, Mauri, and Al) are there seven days a week, and the place never lacks for good music.

Culinary Culture Clash

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Getting something to eat in this area can be a bit challenging after 6 p.m., but during the day you'll find numerous options, most of which one might label "international cuisine." But if you like cafeteria-style dining, stop by Clifton's Brookdale (648 S. Broadway; open daily, 6:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m.). A lot of people rave about this zany downtown icon ... albeit more for the cabin-woods interior than for the food.

I recommend heading to St. Vincent Court off Seventh Street between Broadway and Hill. A couple years ago, the alley was fitted with faux facades to re-create a European streetscape. While it does intrigue passersby, the Disney-esque décor belies the true essence of this unique international street and its delicious fare.

Family-owned St. Vincent Deli was the first shop to make a go of it in the dark alley 19 years ago. Behind the counter, four or five busy guys work steadily from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., serving up Mediterranean fare as well as sandwiches, homemade salads, and desserts. They make a mean Armenian coffee, the best on the block, but the real treat here is the hummus. People from out of town come to the alley just for a plate of it served with warm pita bread and olives.

At the very end of St. Vincent Court, but not easily missed, is Sevan Garden Kabob House (Mon.-Sat., 9 a.m.-5 p.m.). With plenty of open, outdoor seating and a big-screen television, this place draws diners who like to take long lunches. As the name proclaims, this is a real kabob house, although it serves a wide variety of other Mediterranean dishes, most of which I can't spell but can guarantee are delicious. The gregarious owner is a very serious fan of Turkey's soccer team, so during the season you can imagine what's showing on the big screen. It's not uncommon for the dining room to be filled with cheering soccer fans on weekends, or whenever an important game airs.

These are just a few of the best things you'll find in the Historic Core. To make a list of your own favorites, you'll have to do a little walking, looking, and eating. So what are you waiting for?