Yay for Yakitori
Savor the wide-ranging flavors of Nanbankan's tasty, authentic Japanese barbecue
By Richard Foss
There are only so many basic ideas in the culinary world. Take barbecue, for instance. Every culture has some version of the same concept: Hold raw stuff over a fire until it isn't raw anymore, then eat it. In the hands of Englishmen, this becomes overdone roast beef. Texans show rather more patience and subtlety, creating spicy, slow-smoked meats of great complexity. Whether you prefer these or others, like Indian tandoori, South African braai, or Brazilian churrascaria, they're all variations on a general theme.
The Japanese came up with yakitori, about a hundred different combinations of meat and vegetables ornately spiced and quickly grilled. The small portions of each individual item make this a cuisine tailored for people who either appreciate variety or have attention deficit disorder. When I hunger for a meal of skewered and grilled nearly everything, one place I seek out is Nanbankan. It's hidden between a garish kosher Chinese/Persian kabob joint and the entry to an office building; from Santa Monica Boulevard, you can only see a big black door beside a very small sign bearing the restaurant's name. It's quite easy to pass obliviously by, but that would be a shame. Nanbankan is an exceptional example of Japanese barbecue, one that has attracted a loyal following despite refusing to compromise for American tastes.
The word "yakitori" literally means "grilled chicken," but in practice, various other critters and several types of vegetables are also skewered and cooked over the fire. Forty different items can hit the grill within moments of being ordered, and, if you're the sort of person who likes watching the process, you can take a seat at the bar overlooking the kitchen. This is my favorite spot, because it has a great view of the grill and the specials menu. Take a good look at the latter, as it has the most interesting items.
Nanbankan offers 16 different cuts of chicken, many of which may sound bizarre to the uninitiated. Just about everything costs between $2 and $4 dollars per skewer, so a party of four can try a bunch of items without breaking the bank. If you're in an experimental mood, you can order grilled chicken heart, liver, kidney, leg-bone cartilage, or even tail. Don't panic; there are also more conventional cuts. I heartily recommend tsukune, delicious spiced chicken meatballs, as a starter. After that, you might select shiso chicken, white meat wrapped in a leafy herb that splits the difference between minty and peppery. As soon as you realize how good these things are, you're likely to trust the restaurant to serve you anything, even parts of the bird you previously regarded with suspicion.
After I order my chicken, I tend to get nanban yaki (top sirloin of beef), the marinated squid known as ika, and vegetables like shiitake mushrooms, ginkgo nuts, or asparagus wrapped in bacon. Nanbankan has a great variety of savory flavors, well worth exploring to the fullest.
Some tempura and other more conventional Japanese offerings are also done quite well. These can be more expensive than the yakitori, but the most lavish is still only $14. I also enjoy the tempura mushrooms ($6) that arrive crisp and perfectly greaseless, and a bowl of stewed burdock root ($4), a turnip-like vegetable that makes a great mop for spiced soy sauce. To drink, there's cold Kubota sake, an excellent beverage made by a company that's been brewing the stuff since 1662. The fine, delicate beverage complements this cuisine very well. Other sakes, beers, and a few wines are also available, but this is my favorite so far.
Dessert isn't much of a tradition in Japan or at Nanbankan, but that doesn't matter - the variety of flavors and textures is such that I don't usually want sweets. Another skewer of chicken, on the other hand ... .Published: 12/17/2003
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