Bites: September 11, 2008
By Richard Foss
Across the Uni-Verse … In a recent column, I mentioned liking uni, otherwise known as sea urchin. The California Sea Urchin Commission contacted me afterward, thanking me for the mention and sending me information about their invertebrate-of-choice. It seems that there are now three standards of sea urchin – Select California, Premium California, and California Gold, depending on the color, texture, flavor, and scent. It’s a reminder that there are fine distinctions in everything, and I’m glad that someone out there is tasting sea urchin with the same seriousness and devotion that is usually extended to wine, cheese, or chocolate. If I had mentioned liking a combination of uni and asparagus, I might have heard from the asparagus commission too … .
Eat the Vote … The very idea of some politicians being elected to office is enough to make you lose your appetite, so naming dishes after parties or politicians is audacious. But the Avalon in Beverly Hills has added an appetizer menu that does exactly that. The GOP Flatbread (grilled onion & prosciutto) sounds much more palatable than their policies, and the Green Party Platter (of all greens, naturally) is more likely to be a winner than their candidates. If the whole electoral mess makes you crave a drink, you can always order an Obamarita or McCainade from the bar … .
The Secret of Comedy … Everybody knows that the restaurant business is volatile, and menus and management can change at any time. Case in point: Last week we ran a review of Chop Suey in downtown L.A. After the review was filed, but before it ran, the restaurant implemented a complete change in concept – instead of the mainly Chinese food they’ve been serving since the 1930s, they’re now serving pan-Asian cuisine. They are also probably going to revert to the original name, the Far East Cafe. The owner promises that the classic décor will remain, so some things at least won’t change … .
Cage Fight … Leaf Organics recently issued a press release that called itself “the only certified organic restaurant in Los Angeles.” I was curious about this claim and called another organic restaurant, Real Food Daily in Santa Monica, to ask if they were lacking in this department. The manager sounded quite surprised at the claim, because they’ve been certified organic for years. It turns out that the distinction is exactly who is issuing the certificate; both restaurants serve only organic produce, but Leaf is certified by something called Quality Assurance International, and RFD is certified by the City of L.A. It sounds like a quarrel over standards is brewing, and it could turn ugly – look for the all-vegan cage match coming soon?
Seasoned … Meanwhile, on the carnivorous side of the Force, Lawry’s is opening the new Lawry’s Carvery at LA Live by the Staples Center. It’s a departure for the venerable company, a casual quick-dining concept from a place long associated with formal and languorous service. It should do well in this location, and besides, it’s a way to enjoy Lawry’s roast meats without having to venture downwind of the Stinking Rose, which so ably lives up to its name.
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Published: 09/10/2008
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