R-E-S-P-E-C-T
Bistro Garden gets our like, but not our love
By Richard Foss
Back when I was young, wild, and single (and if you go back far enough, I was all of those things), I briefly dated a woman my friends thought was perfect for me. After a couple of awkward dinners, I found that I could like her, respect her, and share her interests, but somehow things just didn’t click on the level that mattered. We drifted apart, and everybody who thought we were destined for each other was terribly confused.
I’ve had the same feeling again. Several people urged me to visit the Bistro Garden in Studio City as if it were the dining equal of a soulmate. They said the setting was striking, classic techniques and fresh ingredients reigned, and the experience was unlike anything else in the Valley. For the most part, they were right, but when it came right down to it, a certain spark just wasn’t there.
The place does have character unusual for the Valley, a lovely high-ceilinged room with woodwork and floral arrangements reminiscent of a French country inn. A pianist hidden in a corner alcove played light classical and Broadway tunes beautifully, and as the evening darkened, it became a space full of soft light reflecting from cut glass.
The menu is American bistro rather than true French – crab cakes, salmon with corn salsa, and ahi tartare with avocado and ginger join the steak frites and lamb rack. It’s cosmopolitan without being challenging, and if you can’t find something to like, you’re mighty picky. We started our dinner with a daily special of lentil soup ($8) and the Bistro Garden Salad ($15). The lentil soup was average, flavored with cumin, onion, and spices that reminded us of a bowl of good mild chili. Not bad, but our waiter had recommended it so highly that we wondered what the fuss was about. The salad was much better – hearts of palm, watercress, artichoke, cucumber, tomato, and mushrooms in a delicate, tart herb dressing, a subtle assist to natural goodness. The only off note was with the service – as both soup and salad arrived, an assistant was at the server’s elbow wanting to grind pepper on them, but we put him off until we could taste them first. He then disappeared, nowhere to be found once we actually wanted some pepper for the soup. It was an odd lapse, since the restaurant was far from full and our request was so easy.
We were also surprised by the inadequacy of the by-the-glass wine selection in a place with a European theme and wine-friendly cuisine. The list was short and more expensive than we expected, and when we ordered they were out of our first choice. We had glasses of Kunde Chardonnay and Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc, both decent wines, but we would have liked some more exciting or adventurous choices.
For main courses we chose risotto with shredded short ribs ($25) and veal picatta with fettuccini ($35). The risotto was the most successful dish of the evening, fantastic tender meat with concentrated flavor over fragrant rice with asparagus tips, mushrooms, and Parmesan. If the rest of the meal had been to this standard, this restaurant would have leaped to the top of my list for Valley dining. Unfortunately, the veal didn’t; the meat was tender but submerged under an excessive portion of capers. The pickled flavor overwhelmed the lemon and meat, and we left half of it on the plate. The pasta in a sauce of feta, Parmesan, and poppy seeds was a mildly pleasant but not outstanding accompaniment; we noticed that it is available as a main course, but it’s much better as a side dish.
A dessert of chocolate profiteroles ($9.50) and a souffle with fresh whipped cream and berries ($10.50) were far more pleasing. The profiteroles were a pair of pointy-topped choux buns that looked hilariously like one of Madonna’s old bras when circled with whipped cream, filled with ice cream, and topped with chocolate – heck, this might be where she got the idea. The souffle hit all the marks, incredibly light and rich, a delicate crust over a cloudlike interior. It was a sweet, satisfying end to a meal with some distinct high and low points.
The Bistro Garden has been in business for almost 20 years but still feels like a work in progress – the cooking is generally solid, but minor carelessness in the food and service keeps me from unequivocally recommending the place. A little added excitement or flair in the cooking, some adventure on the wine list, and this would be a place I could love rather than just respect.
Bistro Garden, 12950 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 501-0202. Open midweek for lunch and dinner, dinner only on weekends. Full bar, valet parking, wheelchair access good. Call for reservations.
Published: 09/10/2008
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